Rising to the occasion

One of the joys of 2020 has been my success with sourdough. I love the fact that Homer (my starter) is unique to me, because how he has grown has depended entirely on the micro-organisms available here Chez Snail and in the ingredients that I use. I also love the fact that Homer’s offspring (Bart) is leading a happy and healthy life round the corner with a friend who we have got to know (rather than just saying hello) during this time of restrictions (we chat when we meet during our dog walks).

Recently, at the recommendation of Kim (The Material Lady), I bought a copy of Emilie Raffa’s book and have had great success with some of her recipes, including some really lovely chocolate chip bread. So, thank you, Kim.

Next experiment is going to be brioche – drool.

“D’oh”

Back near the beginning of the year, you may recall, I began my experiments with sourdough. It was before lockdown and it was just a whim… a vague desire to see whether it was really possible to create, from scratch, a viable culture of micro-organisms with which to make bread. And then came coronavirus and everyone had to stay at home and madly started hoarding random things… including yeast. There was no yeast in the shops and so, suddenly, sourdough became “the thing”. By this time my culture was well established and I was using it for most of my yeasted baking. I’m sure that most cultures that were started during lockdown have long since passed away, but mine is going strong.

Anyway, a couple of months ago Kate (Tall Tales from Chiconia) mentioned that it is traditional to name sourdough cultures. I wasn’t feeling inspired, so I asked Mr Snail to come up with a suggestion. He though about it for a while, and finally proposed Homer… “because ‘D’oh!'”

And so, Homer is our sourdough starter. This meant that when we passed a portion on to a friend, it was naturally named Bart. Apparently Bart too is still going strong.

Anyway, in recent months I have become a little more adventurous with Homer and was delighted to discover what beautiful sweet, enriched dough it is possible to make. I found a recipe for cinnamon rolls that I adapted slightly to make apple Chelsea buns, and it was a triumph… better than my previous attempts made using commercial yeast.

The filling is grated apple with the juice squeezed out through a cloth, then mixed with melted butter, cinnamon and brown sugar. The glaze was made from the apple juice mixed with a bit of sugar (rather than the traditional milk and sugar mix), Although the dough is sweet, it actually doesn’t contain too much sugar, so the result is not sickly, especially if the apples are a bit sharp.

Homer is also now our go-to source of yeast for all bread-making and the packet of commercial yeast is languishing in the fridge, being used only occasionally because I feel I should use it up.

Dough!

A few weeks ago, before we were all confined to barracks, I decided that it would be interesting to have a go at making sourdough bread. It takes a while to get the starter in a usable state and my first attempt just didn’t work – ending up watery and smelling rather unpleasant. Attempt number two was much more of a success and I have been carefully nurturing my lovely culture for a couple of weeks now. And then yesterday I noticed that it had gone mad and was bubbling out of it’s jar. So, the time was right to give it a go. I wanted to start simple and so I settled on a white loaf.

There’s mixing and kneading and leaving it to prove twice before finally knocking it back, shaping it in a basket and leaving it overnight in the refrigerator. after all the investment in time, I was itching to find out what it would be like. And the result? Delicious – a wonderful light loaf, not at all sour, but with a different taste to yeasted bread and a great texture. The next challenge is to keep the starter (now transferred to a much bigger jar) happy long-term and to experiment with some other flavours.

The recipe I worked from was in the Shipton Mill book A handful of flour. The starter is made with 1/5 wholewheat flour and 4/5 strong white flour, mixed with the same weight of water. I fed it every day for over a week, then every couple of days for another 10 days or so.

I like yeasted bread, but this is a rather good alternative – and how bread was originally made before commercial yeast was available. I’m really taken with the idea that every culture is unique because it’s the result of the person who makes it and the place and the specific conditions as well as the ingredients selected. So my sourdough will taste different to that made by anyone else – how great is that? Do you have experience of making sourdough?

Apple time

Although I was given some windfalls a couple of weeks ago, yesterday saw the arrival of the first of the big apple harvest: lovely eaters given to me by Katy the Night Owl. We eat apple all the way through the year because I bottle it, but there are some recipes that demand fresh fruit, so I can only cook these for a limited time. I absolutely will not buy apples out of season, although some varieties last a good long time if undamaged.

Anyway, I have started our apple festival with an apple plait. This fabulous cinnamon and apple bread is delicious fresh, and once it’s a couple of days old makes the most wonderful French toast. Just the smell of it baking is enough to make me start salivating.

Basically it’s an enriched dough (i.e. it contains egg and milk and butter and take a long time to rise), filled with apple, brown sugar, a little butter and cinnamon. I always make it as a plait, but you could easily adapt it to any shape – swirls, buns, a rolled loaf, whatever you fancy.

The second recipe on my list of things to make when we have fresh apples is Dutch apple pie. This is really nothing like the apple pie I grew up with, and I only discovered it a couple of years ago (recipe here), but it has become a firm favourite in our house… especially since it requires no pastry-rolling and is like a cross between a pie and a crumble. In fact, now I’ve mentioned it, I want to make one for dinner tonight… excuse me, I could be some time…

Three Things Thursday: 24 August 2017

My weekly exercise in gratitude – three things that are making me smile – feel free to steal this idea with wild abandon and fill your blog [or Twitter account or Facebook page or diary or life in general] with happiness.

First, cabinets complete. After a slight issue with the cornice, the shelves are now completed, the cookery books back in the kitchen and the cupboards are being filled. I never thought that a kitchen cabinet could be such a thing of beauty.

Second, bread and butter. I have recently been reading about the processed food industry (more on this in a later post) and, as a result, I’m very grateful that we have the opportunity to make most of our own food from scratch and buy good-quality ingredients. We know exactly what’s in the bread that Mr Snail makes and our butter is just butter (milk and a little salt).

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simple, but delicious

 

Third, nasturtiums. Some years ago I sowed nasturtium seeds in the garden and I’ve never had to do so again. I know the flowers are rather blousy, but I do love to see them every year (and they look beautiful in salads too).

So, that’s what’s making me happy today. How about you?

-oOo-

Emily of Nerd in the Brain originally created Three Things Thursday, but it’s now being hosted by Natalie of There She Goes.

A kale tale

At this time of year I start to be rather unenthusiastic about one particular crop, namely kale. It’s a great thing to grow – it provides fresh greens all through the winter from just a few plants and, when freshly picked, it is tender and delicious. But, it goes on for months and so eventually the novelty does wear off.

Yesterday, however, I was inspired. I had made bread rolls and had defrosted some of the delicious pulled pork that I cooked for the winter solstice; I picked winter salad leaves from the garden, made mayonnaise using eggs from the hens and opened a jar of sweet chilli sauce made from our home-grown chillies. However, I really wanted a bit of crunch. And then it dawned on me: kale-slaw. I shredded some kale (including some of the thinner stalks, grated a carrot, chopped the top of a sprouting onion and with the addition of some of the freshly made mayo – a tasty slaw.

 

Milling around

Felin Ganol's wheel: power from an abundant resource

Felin Ganol’s wheel: power from an abundant resource

Last week we ran out of wholemeal flour. Rather than being a nuisance, however, it provided a welcome opportunity to visit our local mill.

Just a few miles away, in Llanrhystud, is a beautiful restored water-mill, Felin Ganol and it is from here that we buy our flour. All their flour is organic, but they have worked with Aberystwyth University so that, as well as their standard British flour, they also sell flour produced from our own county – Ceredigion. As you might know, Wales is quite hilly and land for growing wheat is limited. In the past, however, it was produced here and it’s lovely to think of this happening once more and it being processed so locally and in such an environmentally friendly way.

Beautiful restoration inside the mill

Beautiful restoration inside the mill

And, it doesn’t end there. The ‘Bake your lawn‘ project is encouraging schools to grow their own wheat, harvest and clean it, then bring it to the mill to grind into flour and, finally, bake into bread that the children get to eat. I love this idea of connecting children with the food that they eat; after all, even here in such a rural area, I’m guessing that most kids think bread comes from a plastic bag. If you’re interested in being involved, the project isn’t confined to Felin Ganol, but is nationwide: check out the Real Bread Campaign for details.

The produce... good quality, local food

The produce… good quality, local food

Our trip to buy bread (combined with other chores to make sure we optimise car use and limit the amount of fuel we use and thus the cost both financially and environmentally) was a sociable event – including a long chat… not the quickest shopping trip, but it does mean we support a local business, cut down on food miles and are a tiny part of a really fantastic restoration project. Not everyone has a local working water-mill, but if you do – give them your business, and if not, check out your other local food producers you’ll almost certainly find great produce and friendly folks!

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Very small things

I’m very well read. Possibly not in the sense of great literature – I’ve never read a whole novel by Dickens, my Shakespeare is shaky and I’ve managed the first chapter of Catch 22 about four times but never got any further. However, I work as a scientific editor and this means that I get to read some fascinating pieces of research (as well as some dull ones). And they come from all over the world because, mostly, I work with authors whose first language isn’t English. Much of the work that I read is at the cutting edge of its particular subject, whether that’s ecology, genetics, forestry, biotechnology, nursing or education, so I get to know about new ideas and technologies before they have even been published and become available to the rest of the world… which is how, a couple of years ago, I came to know about research in Sweden looking at how micro-organisms that occur naturally in the soil can be used to deal with pollutants from the paper industry… and not just make them harmless, but convert them into a useful product… biomass or ethanol to use as fuel, for example.

Which brings me to the point of this post… aren’t micro-organisms brilliant?

Yes, I know some of them cause diseases, but they are in the minority. Go out into a woodland and scrape the top layer of leaves off the soil and you will find very fine white strands – fungal mycelia. These make connections with plant roots, providing the plants with improved access to water and minerals. And the only time most people are aware of them is when they produce their fruiting bodies – mushrooms and toadstools. But these fungi are not really micro-organisms – we can see them with the naked eye (at least some of the time). What about organisms that are even smaller?

Bacteria and small fungi in the soil are essential components of the system – without them the soil simply would not function in the way it does. They are responsible for all sorts of activities, but especially decomposition of plant material, dead animals and faeces… without this happening the world could not function. There are also special bacteria that fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and without them there would be no life as we know it since nitrogen is an essential part of the proteins that are building blocks for life and enzymes that allow all sorts of chemical reactions to take place inside living things.

We use fungi directly in our food chain – mushrooms and truffles are an obvious food, but there’s also the yeast we use in our bread, beer and wine, and to make Marmite and various cheeses. Remember too that the first antibiotic, penicillin, came from a fungus. We eat bacteria as well, although that may not be quite so obvious, but they are used to make yoghurt, cheeses, wine, vinegar, soy sauce and various pickles.

Algae are also interesting – they are microscopic (or bigger) plants. They are very simple in terms of their structure, but they photosynthesise and so they, like all green plants, make their own food from water and carbon dioxide with the help of sunshine. As humans, we don’t tend to eat much algae… although we could… but lots of organisms do. If you head over to the Aquaponic Family blog you will find out all sorts of interesting stuff about algae and what they can be used to do.

So, we really should appreciate the micro-organisms around us more. If we are gardeners, we can care for the fungi, algae and bacteria in the soils that we cultivate by ensuring good soil structure and plenty of compost for those decomposers to work on. Be thoughtful, too, about what chemicals you apply to your soil – changing the pH will change the composition of micro-organisms, applying fungicides may kill the fungi you do want as well as those you don’t. Allowing the soil to become waterlogged will deprive decomposers of oxygen and dead matter will not break down fully (that’s how peat forms). Our compost heaps also rely on the action of micro-organisms, creating a valuable resource for the garden in the form of compost, but also generating heat which, if we are careful, we can make use of by means of hot beds or siting our composter against the greenhouse or inside a polytunnel. You can even grow squashes on top of your compost heap for an early and abundant crop.

So, next time you’re sitting enjoying a beer or some wine and cheese, give a thought to the little critters that made them possible.

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