Jammin’

Having bottled fruit until I was sick of the sight of it, I decided to progress on to some different preserves. We don’t eat huge amounts of jam Chez Snail, but I like to have some around to use to fill Victoria sponge cakes, or occasionally on a piece of toast or in a jam roly-poly. So I set to and made two types: peach and apricot, neither of which I have made before. There were also some left-over peaches, so I made a couple of jars of barbeque sauce to use them up.

I’ve followed (sort of) recipes by Marisa McClellan, which seem to include much less sugar (still lots, though) than traditional British jam, but which require hot water bath treatment (as per the picture above). A few years ago, one of you lovely readers (I can’t remember who) recommended these books and I have been really enjoying some of the recipes. ‘Food in Jars’ has some interesting things in it that aren’t preserves in the conventional sense, like granola and beer bread mix, which I plan to explore a bit more. Mr Snail was dubious about the idea of peach barbeque sauce, but I thought we’d give it a go anyway… I will report back.

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really liking these books

So, that’s it for the current round of preserving – there will be more later in the season. I’m hoping for pineapples in the next month or two!

Relishing a fruity bargain

Every summer I make a trip or two to buy some exotic fruit and hunt for edible bargains. Early on Friday mornings, throughout the year, a fruit and veg supplier sets up his stall in Newcastle Emlyn and, amongst the standard green grocer’s fare, there are many bargains to be had. You can’t guarantee what he will be selling off cheaply and the best bargains need to be cooked or eaten quickly, but it’s always worth a visit. In the past I’ve bought very cheap nectarines, tomatoes, mushrooms, mangoes… and I’ve brought them home for bottling.

So yesterday, rather than my early morning swim, I had an early morning shopping trip. The best bargain I found was organic pineapples – two for £1. The tops were looking somewhat worse for wear, but the fruits themselves seemed generally sound, and I bought four. I also managed to get some peaches, although they didn’t have any big boxes and I will be returning in the hope of finding some more later in the summer.

Earlier in the year we were served pineapple and chilli relish at a restaurant and I had managed to recreate this at home with tinned pineapple (which, until then, I hadn’t bought for years). The fresh ones, along with the current abundance of home-grown chillies meant that it was the perfect time to make a larger batch of this relish. I simply chopped the pineapple, added a little sugar (to help with the preservation) and water, and cooked it up with chillies. First I added a Hungarian black, then a Romanian yellow and finally two lemon drops before I reached the desired heat. The addition of three chopped red chillies that have no heat (a disappointment from 2015 and stored in the freezer) added a little colour and also a visual signal of the contents (lest we should accidentally mistake it for something to eat for dessert). Into hot 0.25l Kilner jars and twenty minutes in a hot water bath, and the relish was ready for storage. Very easy.

This morning I bottled some of the peaches. The flesh is pale, but the syrup is a beautiful pink colour:

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bottled peaches

And finally I’ve making a few jars of peach, lime and red currant jam. We are not big jam-eaters, but it is nice in a Victoria sponge. We’ve got loads of red currants this year and still haven’t used up all last year’s crop, plus I found some lime halves in the freezer with their zests removed (having been used in a lime drizzle cake a while ago),  so I thought I’d do something creative. Peach jam does not set without the addition of pectin, so I am hoping that the currants and lime will be sufficient.

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peach, red currant and lime jam

I love food preservation – opening one of these jars in winter will be like bringing summer into the house.

(Apple) butter me up

I still have lots of apples to process, even though I’m still on the first batch that we collected from High Bank. However, today I have decided to make a preserve that does not require lots of peeling and coring, but does require cider – apple butter.

Simmer the apple chunks with cider

Simmer the apple chunks with cider

It’s a really easy preserve to make. Simply roughly chop 1.5kg of cooking apples and simmer these gently in 600ml cider (medium or dry) until it’s all cooked to a pulp. The next bit is the biggest fiddle – you need to pass the pulp through a nylon sieve to get a lovely apply puree. Measure this and return it to the cleaned preserving pan with 340g of ordinary granulated sugar for every 600ml of puree with the spices of your choice – today I added half a teaspoon of cinnamon. Warm gently to dissolve the sugar, then boil vigorously for about 15 minutes before transferring to hot sterilised jars. Once filled, cover the open jars with a tea towel and allow them to cool before sealing.

Delicious in a cake, on scones or on toast.

Potted up and coolng

Potted up and coolng

Storing the sunshine

PV panels are one way to collect the sun's energy

PV panels are one way to collect the sun’s energy

Solar energy can be collected in all sorts of ways: you can use it to heat water, you can have photovoltaic cells installed and generate electricity, you can have a sun porch and enjoy passive solar heating, or you can grow plants. Green plants use sunshine to convert water and carbon dioxide into carbohydrates… that’s how they grow and that’s photosynthesis. So, any plant cultivation you do means that you are collecting solar energy (and making use of a greenhouse gas, but that’s a whole other story) and it doesn’t require a bank of batteries to store it.

The trouble is that in temperate climates we experience seasons. Some periods of the year are sunny and some not, some are hot and some are cold, so our plants are not able to photosynthesise the same amount all year, nor do our solar panels generate the same amount of electricity. Here in the UK we are currently in the middle of summer… and a rather nice one too. The sun is shining and the fruit and vegetables  are growing well (at least they are it we give them some extra water). As a result there is every likelihood that, in our garden at least, we will soon have more produce than we can consume immediately.

Of course, an abundance in the garden means an abundance on the farm too, so seasonal produce is likely to be cheap at a time when we don’t really need to buy it. The answer is to stock up on the sunshine now, or at least the products of the sunshine, and keep them so that you can enjoy them later in the year. The best fruit and vegetables in this respect are those that can be stored as they are harvested – potatoes in paper sacks, beans dried in the air and stored in jars, onions hung in strings and winter squashes ripened in the sun then kept in the cool dark attic. However, many crops require a little more work.

In the middle of processing the apple glut of 2011

In the middle of processing the apple glut of 2011

I posted the other day about bottling peaches, and ages ago wrote about dealing with the High Bank apple glut in 2011 (another is promised for this year). And, thus, I store the sunshine: bottling and freezing are the two main routes I take for produce that will not keep unprocessed. I know that many people make preserves, but we honestly don’t eat much in the way of jams and chutney, so it seems a waste to make these in abundance.

In many ways, freezing is the easier option – there is little chance of produce going off (unless your freezer fails) and there are many things that need no or little preparation before they are frozen. For example, raspberries can go straight into the freezer and, once defrosted, can be eaten as they are. Other things, such as runner beans or mange tout, require blanching before freezing (i.e. plunging into boiling water for a minute or two) and cooking when they are required, but these are very simple processes. Some vegetables and fruit do not freeze well: courgettes, for example. However, even these can be fried in olive oil and frozen for subsequent use in Bolognese, casseroles or on pizza.

But, part of me balks at storage that requires continuous energy input, so I really like being able to keep at least some of my harvest in bottles and jars. Of course, there is an initial high energy requirement for sterilising jars, boiling syrups and then heating the processed product in the jar to ensure that it keeps. But, it is possible to time these activities to coincide with the solar panels producing at their maximum rate so that we are using sunshine even more in the process. I only bottle fruit – there is too much risk of botulism with vegetables as they are much less acidic.  I use proper preserving jars and ensure that I follow the instructions (particularly minimum temperatures and timings) to the letter to prevent contamination and spoiling of the food and I find the whole process remarkably satisfying.

Once I have the dresser in the kitchen packed with jars of preserved fruit, I find myself peaking in just to enjoy the sight of all those bottles of sunshine that will be cheering many a dreary February day.

Nothing lasts forever

Although it’s the wrong end of the season to be preserving much food, now is a good time to think about how to store produce and what it is possible to keep. The summer is full of good things to eat from the garden, but some simply have to be enjoyed in season; others can be preserved by processing and some will last for months in their raw state.

Some of last year's harvest - raw and processed

I love winter squashes and pumpkins because they provide me with fresh food for many months after harvest – simple ripening and they are ready to be stored in a cool place. We put ours in the loft for the winter, only cutting into the final one from 2011 a few weeks ago. I do wish I had grown more last year and will try to rectify that in the coming season. Here in west Wales my best producer is ‘Boston’ and that is the variety that I will be concentrating on this year: it is a beautiful yellow fruit and, for me, the orange flesh is like sunshine in the dark winter days! So, if I plant the right seeds now, I should be enjoying the fruits (or vegetables) of my labour until this time next year, or beyond.

Unlike squashes, most crops require some active preservation. Perhaps the easiest method is freezing. Although some crops, like mangetout and runner beans, require blanching (plunging into boiling water for a few seconds), quite a few can be frozen from fresh – peas and raspberries, for example. Some crops, however, need much more processing. Courgettes can be fried then frozen for use in stews or soups, or any vegetable or combination of vegetables can be turned into soup and frozen for later consumption. But, of course, this requires a sizeable freezer if there is food for several months and there are costs (financial and environmental) for both the electricity to run it and for its production in the first place.

Canning and bottling are options that require time and energy (both personal and for heat production) at the outset, but subsequent storage should be energy-free. There can be substantial set-up costs too, but all the equipment will be used year after year. I had considerable success with bottled apples – both slices and puree – last year and hope to repeat the process this year if my friend Perkin supplies me with as many apples as he did in 2011. I’m planning on jars of passatta as well, although I’m hoping that Perkin can oblige with the raw materials for this too, as I have limited success with tomatoes usually. Perkin gets a fair deal – I process produce for him too so he has time to concentrate on more growing things. Jam making is another ‘bottling’ technique used by many and you can end up with preserves that last for years.

If your runner beans get too big, then let the seeds develop and dry them to use later in casseroles. Herbs, of course, can be dried, as can apple rings and onions. Fruit and vegetables can also be fermented – parsnip wine anyone? And then there are fruit leathers, sauerkraut, pickles… so many options.

Perhaps the most satisfying way to feed yourself through the year is to have crops that prolong the season or that are harvested at unusual times. Great winter standbys are leeks, kale and purple sprouting broccoli, plus there are many oriental winter vegetables and a variety of salad leaves.

So, as you buy and plant your seeds, think about the vegetables (and fruit) that will crop for you over a long period and at different times of the year. Think about varieties that store well. Think about sequential planting to prolong the season. Then, when you come to harvesting, try to store some of your produce; and if you can’t do this share it with other people and store it in the form of good will!

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